Before attempting yoke tuning, be sure you are shooting with good form and have a torque free gripping style.
If you have a Solocam bow, yoke tuning can play a deciding role when it comes to paper tuning your bow. Yoke tuning is the adjustment of control cable where it splits or becomes a “yoke” in order to achieve a flawless path of movement for the string. When properly yoke tuned, the bowstring will track off the idler wheel straight at full draw, without veering to the right or the left. If the bowstring is not coming off the idler wheel straight at full draw, then it will not enter the idler wheel string channel fluently and will cause left to right string whip at the nocking point during the shot. Follow the following steps to yoke tune your solocam bow.
First check and see if yoke tuning is necessary.
Bring the bow to full draw and anchor for a shot. Look up at the Idler wheel and see how the string is coming off it. If it is coming straight off the idler wheel, then you do not need to yoke tune, but if it is coming off towards one side or another you should yoke tune.
The pictures below are exaggerated situations to clearly show improper cam lean before yoke tuning.
Yoke tuning – Adjusting the yoke
To adjust the yoke we must press the bow and lessen the tension on the control cable. After pressing the bow, we should be able to take the control cable off the top axle pin of the bow. Once you remove the yoke, it is now time to twist or untwist each side of the yoke to achieve proper alignment at full draw.. Study how each side of the yoke has been previously twisted before twisting it on your own. You should do one side at a time (one full twist is a good starting point) and then reattach it to the axle pin. Then do the other side.
If you twist to shorten one side, you must untwist to lengthen the other side. This will keep your axle to axle measurement from changing.
Continue this process until you achieve a proper trajectory off the idler wheel at full draw!